Which wood can take water
In a wet zone, teak, iroko and heat-treated woods (ash, pine) work; oak and walnut work less well. Teak and iroko are rich in natural oils and silica, so they do not fear moisture and last decades on yachts and decks. Thermowood is heated to 190–212 °C without oxygen, absorbs less water and moves less, although it darkens and becomes more brittle.
Oak in a bathroom is possible, but only with a finish and moderate humidity, outside direct splash. Walnut and cherry are best kept for dry rooms: they darken and stain from water. If you want living wood with little upkeep, choose teak; if you need a light tone, thermo-ash or oak under oil with regular care.
Oil or lacquer for bathroom wood
In a bathroom oil is the usual choice and lacquer is kept for dry surfaces. Oil or hard wax penetrates the fibre, the wood breathes, and small scratches and stains are treated locally without sanding the whole piece. The downside: oil must be renewed, roughly once a year in the splash zone and less often on dry parts.
Lacquer forms a film and protects better in the first years, but a crack lets water under the film, the wood blackens beneath it, and the whole piece has to be repaired. For wet zones, marine or two-component polyurethane lacquer is used, and end grain and hidden faces are treated too: water enters precisely through untreated ends. The decision depends on whether you will keep up the maintenance.
Can you put a wooden countertop by the basin
Yes, at 30–40 mm thick, in teak, iroko or oak with a water-resistant finish, and a wall-hung or vessel basin with good sealing. The most vulnerable spot is the cut-out for the basin and tap. All cuts and edges are treated in several coats before installation, the gap around the basin is filled with neutral silicone, and water from the tap must not sit on the wood.
A solid wood countertop moves: seasonal shrinkage and swelling of 1–2 mm per metre of width, so fixings are made slotted, not rigid. A joiner who glues it down solid is planting a crack. In a kitchen, around sink and hob, stone or stainless steel is more dependable, and wood is kept for the dry part of an island.
A wooden floor in a bathroom: a bad idea?
It depends on the zone. In the shower a continuous wooden floor is a bad idea; a removable teak grating that is lifted out to dry is what works. In the rest of the bathroom, engineered oak with a water-resistant lacquer over prepared waterproofing is possible, but joints between boards remain the weak point and any spill is wiped up at once.
In a luxury bathroom a hybrid is common: stone or tile in the wet zone, wood in the dry one, with the boundary where water really reaches. Underfloor heating under wood is possible, but surface temperature is kept moderate, about 27 °C at most, or the board shrinks and opens at the joints.
Wood in the kitchen: what works and what does not
In a kitchen wood tolerates almost everything except constant water and heat. Veneered fronts in oak, walnut or ash under matte lacquer or oil last for years if the edge is closed and the extractor works. Solid oiled oak work surfaces cope with knives and hot pans only for a while, though they sand back easily; by the sink they are replaced with stone or steel.
Do not put wood hard against a hob or above a dishwasher without protection from steam: in the first case lacquer darkens and cracks from heat, in the second the edges swell from steam when the door opens. An aluminium backing, sealant at the joint and a moisture-resistant plinth do the job. A good kitchen combines wood with stone and metal, and the boundary sits where water and heat are.
Ventilation and care: why wood darkens
Wood darkens from water that stays on it, not from steam. Black spots and a grey film show that moisture lingered and the finish is tired. The main protection is not the finish but ventilation: mechanical extraction that runs during and after a shower, enough air supply and a door that does not trap steam. More on damp bathrooms in our article on ventilation and humidity.
Care is simple: wipe splashes, use neutral soap, do not steam-clean and do not stand wet objects on end grain. Once a year check the areas by the basin and shower: a dull patch says the oil needs renewing. If the wood has already darkened, light sanding and fresh oil bring it back as long as water has not gone deep.
How BCN YARD can help with wood in wet zones
We choose species and finish to suit how you use the home: if you are not there often, we propose solutions that do not need yearly upkeep. We agree samples before ordering and run the project in Russian and Spanish. Send us the floor plan and we will reply within an hour.
Frequently asked questions
Which wood is best for a shower grating?
Teak. It contains natural oils, does not rot and keeps its shape in a damp environment. The grating is made removable, with 5–8 mm gaps between slats so water drains and the wood dries. Iroko works on a smaller budget, but teak lasts longer and greys more gracefully.
How do you treat wood that is already in the bathroom?
Clean with neutral soap, dry, sand lightly with fine paper and apply two coats of oil or hard wax rated for wet zones, wiping off the excess. Black spots from deep mould are treated with an oxygen-based bleach. If the wood is already rotten, it is replaced, not painted over.
Are wooden cabinet fronts acceptable near the sink?
Acceptable if they are veneered fronts with good lacquer on every edge and effective extraction. Base units by the sink often get a plinth in moisture-resistant material and a sealed edge. A leak under the sink must be fixed quickly, because swelling cannot be reversed.